Visions (In).Finite

The Amar Chitra Katha comics are unmatched for their altogether superb rendition of India’s history, mythology and folklore. Their wealth of stories holds much in store for all manner of topics under the sun. As we resume our musings on infinity, it is to this treasured collection that we return, for one more tale of the emperor Akbar and his minister Birbal.

The Sycophant’s Praise

One fine day, a wandering minstrel, hard of circumstances, came calling to Akbar’s court, requesting to sing for the emperor. Permission granted, the bard was soon in his element, entertaining all present with his paeans of fulsome praise for the emperor, extolling him at one point as even greater than God. Ridiculous as it was, the melodious flattery certainly succeeded in buttering up the emperor, who presently dismissed the sycophant with a generous reward for his efforts.

Having sent the man away, Akbar noticed that the sharp witted Birbal, always known to call a spade a spade, had remained silent throughout the performance, not raising as much as an eyebrow at the overly exaggerated praise. On the contrary, Birbal had even nodded mildly at the ridiculous line of the emperor being greater than God! ‘Tell me how in God’s world can that be true’, Akbar now prodded his minister.

The best of emperors can be whimsical, and however high they may hold you in regard, Birbal knew he was only one mistake away from being expelled from court or worse, if he so much as made a single careless slip of the tongue. But Birbal was also a master of thinking on his feet, and sure enough, had a quite precocious answer up his sleeve.

With the look of a teacher indulging his favorite pupil, the witty minister told Akbar that the sycophant was indeed correct in one specific, if rather narrow way. If Akbar wished to banish a man from his kingdom, all he had to do was to issue a royal decree to deport the man for good. But if the Lord of the whole wide Universe wanted to do the same thing, where was it that He could banish anyone to?

Akbar was both impressed and grateful for how tactfully Birbal had opened his eyes, delivering a nuanced lesson in humility, but with no humiliation whatsoever. With this clever response, Birbal had also juxtaposed physical and metaphysical infinities quite artfully, blending them into the same conversation. But this little story can also reveal a lot more to us about finitude and infinity.

Glimpses from Finite

In the nineteenth century novel, Sartor Resartus, Scottish philosopher Thomas Carlyle speculates on our perception of the universe.

‘We sit as in a boundless Phantasmagoria and Dream-grotto; boundless, for the faintest star, the remotest century, lies not even nearer the verge thereof; sounds and many-colored visions flit around our sense; but Him the Unslumbering, whose work both Dream and Dreamer are, we see not; except in rare half-waking moments, suspect not…’

The vastness of infinity can overwhelm the human mind, so much so that we are all pretty sure there’s nobody who has actually ‘seen’ infinity. Hold that thought for a moment though, convincing as it may be. It turns out that anytime we see a physical object (or envision something in the mind’s eye, like the extent of Akbar’s kingdom) we see it as outlined by its boundaries. No form can be seen without cognizing its boundary, and thereby its background context. That background, which is the space surrounding the object, is by its very nature limitless, even while it may include other encompassing objects or boundaries.

Such would be the case for example with concentric circles, where the space beyond the outermost circle is boundless. The background, which we cannot help seeing whenever we apprehend a particular form, is essentially unbounded, and infinite. We might not notice or pay attention to it, but it is always there.

Even in our finite vision, infinity thus turns out not to be some inaccessible and fanciful abstraction, but sitting right under our noses, so to speak. The background of space is not so much hard to see, as it is impossible to avoid. While our finite vision cannot survey all of it in one glance, one is still always catching a glimpse of infinity.

This reasoning can apply not just to ‘substantial’ objects, but also to something as insubstantial as a rainbow, whose boundaries are most easily seen as merging into the endless expanse of the sky.

You can also apply it to intangible things like emotions. Consider an outburst anger or an upsurge of joy. When we are aware of these, we are ‘seeing’ them spring up, out of the blue as it were, from the skylike backdrop of awareness. We might also notice they have a temporal beginning and end, set against the infinite expanse of time.

With a little leap of thought, such reasoning can extend to theology. The question of boundaries here might be framed as ‘where do I end, and where does God begin’.

With regard to metaphysical boundaries, we are really talking of spheres of influence. As human beings, the outer personality of our physical form is enfolded by layers of our subtle bodies and mind, to constitute our personal aura. For most people, the human aura extends for a few feet beyond the physical body. In the case of evolved beings though, their auras can be seen by clairvoyants as extending out for miles in the shape of a radiant sphere, charged with the power to influence others with healing and blessings.

Similar is the case we find in astrology, where the auras of the planetary angels extend and overlap as spheres which intersect, and to some extent interpenetrate each other, bringing varying kinds of energetic influences over time to chart human destiny.  Ruling above all of this is the Aura Supreme, of the Lord of the Universe, the akhanda mandala or unbroken sphere, penetrated by none, but penetrating All…the benevolent sphere of universal love which influences all others, but is influenced by none. This is the sphere of metaphysical infinity, the sphere from which no one can be banished ever.

Perhaps Ramakrishna, that much loved spiritual genius of Bengal, said it best to the skeptical young Narendranath Dutta who went on to become the world famous Swami Vivekananda. To Naren’s insistent question of if he had seen God, Ramakrishna responded with a dazzling conviction ‘Yes, I see Him, only a little more clearly than I see you!’ The boundaries that Ramakrishna’s vision transcended, of course, extended far beyond Vivekananda’s physical form. It was a timeless Presence that Ramakrishna saw naturally emmbodied in the young man, who was hugely taken with the saint’s startling reply.

Inter Being

Even if we ignored the background, we cannot miss the object itself. The great Vietnamese Zen master Thich Nhat Hahn reveals with astonishing clarity how just contemplating the finite can reveal the universal, in as much as a single sheet of paper.

If you are a poet, you will see clearly that there is a cloud floating in this sheet of paper; Without a cloud, there will be no rain; without rain, trees cannot grow, and without trees, we cannot make paper. If we look even more deeply, we can see the sunshine, the logger who cut the tree, the wheat that became his bread, and the logger’s father and mother. Without all of these things, this sheet of paper cannot exist. In fact, we cannot point to one thing that is not here – time, space, the earth, the rain, the minerals in the soil, the sunshine, the cloud, the river, the heat, the mind. Everything co-exists with this sheet of paper. So we can say that the cloud and the paper ‘inter-are’. We cannot just be by ourselves alone; we have to inter-be with every other thing.

/Thich Nhat Hahn, ‘The Heart of the Prajnaparamita Sutra

Whether we look at an object, or whether we look at its background, we are thereby always glimpsing the infinite. This inter-being that Thich Nhat Hahn talks of is vast and cosmic in its scope, extending all the way up to the Unbroken Spere of the akhanda mandala. It is perhaps what Blake alludes to, when he penned those lovely lines…

To see a World in a Grain of Sand
And a Heaven in a Wild Flower 
Hold Infinity in the palm of your hand 
And Eternity in an hour

Measure(less) Mind

Mind is wont to measure and size up everything. Children obsess about their heights, adults about their weights and girths, including if the zero of the weighing scale has been fairly calibrated. Today’s trending measures include BMI, cholesterol, and the number of steps as reported by Fitbit or a less fancy pedometer. We also have measures, albeit subjective, for beauty and proportion, homely vs comely, and in short, for all things (and creatures) great and small.

But if there is one thing the mind cannot get the measure of, it is of itself, it’s own extent, and we cannot even be sure if there is a limit to it.

At the back of all preoccupation with the limited is the fascination for the limitless, which in psychological terms is the yearning for some sort of unrestricted freedom. Nobody has ever seen infinity, but every one of us had the taste of being bound and restricted, and therefore by reflex, the yearning for something free and unbound. We have also the sense that this yearning would not be there unless it was in some manner capable of being fulfilled, though we may not know exactly how. Mind suspects intuitively that the infinite is concealed by the finite, the extraordinary lurks under the veil of the ordinary, and the limitless is shrouded by the limited.

Infinite Vision

The finite can catch a glimpse of the infinite, but what would it be to gaze at infinity directly, without the intervening presence or support of the finite? This is the subjective experience of pure infinity, pristine and unconditioned, one beyond the reach of any mental gymnastics. This is the gazing into Absolute, all of it at once. As the Zen saying goes, it is ‘to swallow the Pacific Ocean in a single gulp’. How can a finite mind manage it? The approach has to be one  not of brute force, but strategy. This is the approach of subtle mirroring.

Perhaps gazing deep into the sky of outer space, with not even the stars to intervene, might bring us close to this experience. The mind, after all, is well known to take on the contours of the objects it is focused on.

Now just like if you kept travelling East you might at some point find yourself in the West, if you kept gazing into boundless space, your attention might at some point be thrown back into itself, doing an about turn as it were to go deep within. Gazing into all-encompassing outer space, the mind’s inner spaciousness then comes to the fore. A gap opens up into the mind’s inner sky, the window of Zen’s ‘satori’, bridging outer expanse of space with inner expanse of mind into the Celestial Everywhere.

In like manner, if one looked into the present moment deeply enough, mind’s sense of present time can open up into the Timeless Now, in whose archives everything even of the future happened long ago, so that this Moment is forever new.

Diving deep, beyond reach of words and thought, mind ultimately merges in the liberating expanse of its very own nature, of unconditioned awareness. In such awareness might be revealed how all the outer infinities, of our endless inter-being, of infinite space, of eternal time, and the all-encompassing love of the Unbroken Sphere, are but reflections of mind-nature, that of pristine freedom.

Such is the state of samadhi, the unbounded infinity of the wise. Shankara, most celebrated of India’s mystics, describes it eloquently. ‘Thou from whom all words recoil’.

While from his vantage point of the Dream-grotto, Thomas Carlyle echoes a similar understanding…

Think well, thou too wilt find that Space is but a mode of our human Sense, so likewise Time; We are – we know not what; Light-sparkles floating in the aether of Deity!’

The Deity of the Celestial Everywhere and Timeless Now.

Looking From Infinity

Glorious as infinte vision might be, what then is the value of the finite?

Just like with a shift of perception, we saw that the finite cannot avoid the infinite, could the flipside be true, that from the infinite eye, it would be impossible to avoid the finite?

From the North Pole, all directions point South. Wherefore from infinity, we might ask. How would the finite appear to the vision and gaze of the infinite?

The answer, truly speaking, can only be found in a consciousness that has tasted of satori or samadhi at least once. But that does not stop us from some creative speculation.

The vision of the finite that we may be privileged to see, from the wakefulness of infinite vision, may not necessarily be one of physical boundaries, but one of boundaries of consciousness.

The finite may appear as finite, but not necessarily in set and rigid contours as before. The boundaries may be like that of the spectrum of the colors of light, with each microtone of color merging seamlessly into the next micro-wavelength of radiation.

So it might be with levels of consciousness, from crystals and minerals, to plants and animals, human beings and stars, all the way to the brilliance of divine consciousness. All in all, the world of finitude appears much like a dreamlike vision, a smorgasbord of colors of every possible hue in consciousness. Speculations on the identity of the dreamer, if there is indeed one, or if dream and dreamer are one, and so on, are a wholly different philosophical cup of tea. All we know for sure is those who have chanced upon such a vision never stop speaking of its endless beauty.

From finite gazing (if unknowingly) into infinite, to infinity’s immaculate gazing at itself, and then back to looking ‘out of infinity’ in fresh colors, we have mirrored the path of the wise, who straddle finite and infinite, the dance of Relative and the play of Absolute Reality, with consummate ease.

These are the seers of Truth, the Rishis of every land and epoch. It is said of these noble ones, that immersed in the thrall of the Absolute, their all-pervading compassion never loses touch with the Relative. And immersed in the dance of the Relative, their all-pervading wisdom never loses sight of the Absolute. Theirs is the infinite kingdom.

So what of infinity as it relates to our own roamings, in the pursuits and concerns of life? There is this sense we’ve all had, at some point or other, that life is a journey, be that journey a wandering or a homecoming. The ideas of roaming, space and direction can be viewed from the perspective of metaphysics, but can also be complemented by some interesting insights from the world of arithmetic and geometry.

Our next blog post will embark on these journeys (in)finite.

A Bastion for Tradition

Think of Chennai, and several word and image associations can spring to mind. City of Temples. Carnatic music. Bharatanatyam. The Marina. Culture. Idli, Vada and Pongal. All of this, and some more, can be encapsulated in a single word, Mylapore. All of 8 square kilometers, this oldest of Chennai’s neighborhoods is surely the cultural and intellectual hub of the city.

Mylapore owes its name to the peacocks (Mayil, in Tamil) that once roamed the area freely. Historical references go back to at least the 7th Century AD, the time when the famous Kapaleeshwarar temple was built here by the reigning Pallava kings of the area. The towering temple to Shiva and its sacred tank (Mylapore Tank), with the famed mada veedhis (streets) and busy shops surrounding it, is the center of Mylapore’s many attractions. Inside are the shrines of the Divine Mother Karpagambal, and Shiva as Kapaleeshwarar. Traditional belief has it that whoever visits Karpagambal would never have to go hungry. The temple celebrates its famous nine day Panguni (Spring) Festival in March/April every year, when the streets stay jam-packed for days on end. Present day Mylapore is a bustling residential neighborhood where much of this old-world charm and religious fervor remain preciously intact.

Speaking of temples, in a lighter vein, it is said that you only have to trip and fall on a Mylapore street, and get up to find yourself at the doors of a temple. You may not have to walk more than a few minutes on most streets here before you can find a shrine to your favorite god or goddess.

One way of getting to know Mylapore, and a delicious one, is a food walk, which can tantalize with a fascinating range of assorted vegetarian treats. Several of Mylapore’s famous eateries (messes) roll out patently traditional items, like the kozhukattais, beloved treat of Lord Ganesha, made as rice dumplings with a sweet (coconut and jaggery) or savory filling. The seventy year old Rayar’s Café on Arundale Street is a must stop as well. This hole in the wall is famous for its idlis, vadas and Mysore bondas, not to mention the coconut chutney. I remember eating here with my dad one summer afternoon as a boy of five, maybe less, where I couldn’t decide which was hotter, the dosa or the weather!

Then there’s the Jannal Kadai (the Window Shop), right next to Kapaleeshwarar temple, where food is served out through a window. After morning devotions around the temple during the sacred Tamil month of Margazhi (December/January), it makes superb sense to fight the morning chill with Jannal Kadai’s  delicious breakfast menu of bajjis, pongal and dosa. Not far from here is the Kalathi Stall, famed for its rose milk.  And of course, one can always find plenty of places for a cup of traditional filter coffee, served in tiny steel tumblers and davaras, to heighten the experience.

Should you go overboard with all the food, a visit to Dabba Chetty Kadai is in order. This 100-year-old shop on Kutchery Road is your ready resort for all kinds of native herbal and country medicine, stacked in neat tin containers (or dabbas). Old timers in Mylapore can swear to its efficacy in combating all common ailments, and thanks to its formulations, report never having had to take to Western medicine. The dabbas may not be labelled, but the shop staff know how to reach out blindfolded for the exact medicine you need. Their Diwali leghyam, a concoction to correct the imbalances from festive eating around Diwali time, is sold only for a couple of weeks around the festival, but is arguably their hottest selling item of the year.

The December music festival is another of Mylapore’s (and Chennai’s) landmark events. The venerable Music Academy hosts some of the top artistes of the Carnatic music pantheon, but is by no means the only venue in town. In the vicinity of Mylapore are perhaps a dozen or so music sabhas (clubs) to cater to Chennai’s famed musical cognoscenti at this time of year. Much of the music is devotional, and it is a known fact that crime rates dip to near zero at this time of year. It’s perhaps got to do with the many gods and goddesses who descend upon the city to hear all of the divine music!

Mylapore wouldn’t be half as interesting though but for its amazing shops and bazaars, teeming with people, where you can find everything under the sun to never have to leave Mylapore your entire life. There’s rows of stalls selling bindis, bangles and other trinkets. Flower sellers and vegetable vendors line the sidewalks. Saree shops famous for their silks, like Rasi’s and Nalli’s, are perennially popular, as are jewelry stores like Nathella’s and Sukra’s. There’s Ambika Appalam for spice powders and papadams, Sri Vidya Manjal Kumkumam store for turmeric and vermillion, Vijaya Stores for school books, and Grand Sweets for snacks and tiffins. The shops at Luz Corner purvey clothes and cosmetics, and gift items and articles of everyday use. Nehru News Mart is a popular newsmagazine store, while Giri Trading is famous for books and religious items, and Sapthaswara Musicals sells traditional musical instruments. All of these, and several more, have carved a permanent niche for Mylapore, drawing locals and tourists alike.

If Chennai exudes a conservative, erudite aura of learning, Mylapore has a large part to do with it. The TamBram community can be found in full fledged flourish here, its storied success owing as much to a natural penchant for academics as an inherited fondness for curd rice. The TamBram heritage places a premium on culture and intellect, aesthetics and brilliance. Every other family can boast of a relative who’s immigrated to the United States or some such cold destination abroad. But these migratory snowbirds are inevitably back for the December holidays, to relive traditional memories and revel in the mild weather.

Mylapore’s ethos might be primarily Hindu, but it is also home to old mosques, as well as Luz Church and the Santhome Basilica, two iconic churches that date back to around half a millennium ago. Furthermore, the splendid new Universal Temple of Sri Ramakrishna, adjacent to the century old Sri Ramakrishna Math, provides a perfect modern day amalgam of spiritual harmony.

In cosmopolitan changing Chennai, Mylapore is a microcosm for all things traditional, continuing to thrive and blossom as fine as ever. Its way of life draws gladly from the tried and tested goodness of the past. The old remains adaptable, but has never really had to make way for the new. Rather, it is inevitably the new, which with time, comes to acknowledge the resilient wisdom of the old.  In this ever ongoing exchange and alchemy of old with new, Mylapore is an abiding home for several excellent traditions from the past. Be it with its temples or festivals, Carnatic music or vegetarian cooking, the environs of Mylapore are always ready to welcome you, ever so gently, to the finer nuances and joys of life.

The Call of Kali

The last week has been one of reminiscences and nostalgia. I was back in Kolkata, that great throbbing city of feeling and soul, the city of my carefree younger days with its enduring memories. Arriving late in the afternoon, we couldn’t have hoped for a warmer welcome than that which greeted us at the Taj Bengal, the modern landmark of Bengali hospitality in South Kolkata’s plush neighborhood of Alipur. Dinner that evening was a languid and leisurely affair at the Taj’s showpiece restaurant, the Chinoiserie. The delectable spread would have done the veteran chefs of Kolkata’s Chinatown proud.

Culinary pleasures aside, the larger quest of this sojourn in Kolkata lay in the realm of the spiritual. The Divine Feminine, especially in her manifestations as Durga and Kali, is a vital presence here, and in the broader spiritual and cultural life of Bengal. Our plans for the next day were to visit two of the city’s most iconic shrines to the Goddess. First would be the historic temple of Kalighat, from which, as the story goes, the city derives its name. Next would be the nineteenth century temple of Dakshineshwar, intimately associated with the life of Bengal’s greatest sage of the modern era, Sri Ramakrishna.

We were up and ready at dawn the next morning, and were rewarded with an incredibly lovely spectacle of dark green foliage, thick purple clouds, and golden pink sunrays.  Sights such as this might well have inspired the imaginations of a Tagore or a Bankim Chandra Chatterjee. The latter’s Vande Mataram is in part an eloquent tribute to the beautiful monsoon moods of the divine painter.

Our hotel was just a few minutes from Kalighat, and we were thus at the temple even before it was 6 am. This turned out fortuitous, as it was a Tuesday, special to Mother Kali, which also meant heavy throngs of worshippers. Upon reaching the locale, we were met by a helpful priest, Krishnaji, and his couple of attendant priests, who showed our group to his home next door. Here, we assembled offerings for worship, including flowers, coconuts and sweets. Led by Krishnaji, we then set off briskly to the temple, ignoring insistent street hawkers and other local characters who offered various types of support and intervention for our visit to the Goddess. Krishnaji marched us through a set of entrances, and presently we were almost at the doors of the garba griha, also called the Nija Mandir, the inner sanctuary of the Goddess’s own home. The crowd at this point was quite thick, even for this early hour of the morning, and from here on our pace barely inched forward.

Entering in through the doors of the sanctum, we were joined by other lines of people, elbowing and crushing upon us as we squeezed and wound our way down the steps. The expert crowd maneuvering of several priests, including Krishnaji, who were actually smiling and joking through it all, eased the pressure, even as we looked askance at some in the crowd who tried to sneak their way forward. This was a real-time spiritual lesson in keeping your composure and letting go. Soon enough though, we were in front of the great Goddess, whose startlingly alive image was clearly the compelling force at the center of it all.

A tall and articulate priest played head cop, standing directly in front of the deity, orchestrating crowd movement and issuing orders, even as he pressed upon us for contributions to an offering box for charitable initiatives. He bade us touch the image of the Goddess reverently, and prostrate at her feet, allowing us a few precious moments of imbibing Sacred Presence. A powerful maternal energy pervaded the sanctum, revealing Kali as a fierce dynamo of compassion, a perennial catalyst for the ultimate happiness of every struggling being. One needed little convincing that this was indeed how the great Mother of the Universe would manifest authentically, delighting in the surging waves of devotion from sincere hearts.

Persisting in his enjoyable Bengali accent, the priest now raised the pitch of his appeals, that our proximity to the Goddess enjoined us to give generously, and the giving would go to a credible social cause for children. We were aware that outside of this innermost sanctum, there were other lines with more distant and fleeting viewing access. His insistence toned down considerably however, and morphed to appreciation when we complied with a reasonable offering. He now made sure we could edge our way out without too much trouble, which could have otherwise been a real challenge, so fervent was the enthusiasm of the incoming crowd. I felt both relieved and distinctly fortunate.

We made our way out to a hall where we could finish up our puja, with the breaking of coconuts and the anointment of tilak marks on our foreheads. Then, past the ever insistent and annoying line of beggars that tested our resolve for patience once more, we were soon back at Krishnaji’s, stopping to pick up trinkets and memorabilia from the several stalls in the vicinity. We were happy to now offer him and his supporting cast a modest fee for their tremendous help, and were bid a grateful and genuinely warm goodbye. Our early morning darshan at Kalighat, with its accompanying spiritual transactions, was complete.

After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we now made our way northward, opting for a faster highway route on the Howrah side of the Hooghly, or Ganges river. This drive entailed crossing the Ganges and back over the famed bridges of Kolkata, driving through the verdant Bengal countryside rather than the inner traffic of the city, and in less than an hour, we were at Dakshineshwar. This sprawling complex was where the nineteenth century benefactor, Rani Rasmani, erected a beautiful temple to the goddess Kali, in her manifestation as Bhavatarini, the Mother who liberates her devotees from the fetters of worldly existence. The image of Bhavatarini Kali housed here was the great pivot for Sri Ramakrishna’s extraordinary life of spiritual mastery and universal realization.

The arrangements at Dakshineshwar were more orderly, with long lines of people waiting their turn for darshan of the Goddess. The sweet smell of incense wafted through the large courtyard, even as the sun alternated with the clouds to create a play of light and shade. Expectation was writ large on everyone who came in to view the goddess, and then happy smiles and contentment. The dynamic image of Bhavatarini seemed to radiate a blessing of safe passage through this transient world, if only we could bring ourselves to a space of inner trust. A century and a half ago, her intense presence took over the life of Ramakrishna, his consort Sarada Devi, and the illustrious band of close disciples they trained to actualize his teaching, of service to humanity as service to God.

A visit to Dakshineshwar is not complete without a visit to the Ganges, and after darshan of the Goddess, we made our way to one end of the grounds where a flight of broad steps descended to the river. The flowing waters were pleasantly cool, and even as we dipped ourselves, the overcast sky began a mild drizzle. The scene was ethereal, of a gentle curtain of rain enveloping this holiest of rivers. As we walked back up the steps and exited the vast courtyard, it began to pour with the familiar vigor of the August monsoon. Walking like little kids under this magic cascade of rain, we knew in our hearts this was a blessing from up above. Hardly had we reached our waiting cars though, than the showers abated, while cool raindrops continued to float gently, glistening in the sunshine.

Sri Ramakrishna would maintain that the Divine Mother was both male and female, for the nearer one approached the Divine, the more one would realize He has neither name nor form. Going beyond modern feminism, the wisdom of that transcendent equality has in many ways permeated the cultural mores of Bengal, in both family and social life. Under the ever-watchful gaze of the Goddess, the women of Bengal enjoy a freedom of self-expression and action, at home and in public life, perhaps unmatched by any other region of India. On the streets of Kolkata and the villages of Bengal, they are probably safer at night than women are in many other parts of the world by day. In the daily life of Bengal, Kali’s foremost influence is seen perhaps in this genuinely natural equality.